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  当地时间4月23日,美国哥伦比亚大学可持续发展中心主任、经济学家杰弗里·萨克斯表示,美国是联合国体系中最不支持多边主义的国家,其单边主义政策正在严重影响全球和平与发展。

  当天,在由中方主持召开的“单边主义和霸凌行径对国际关系的冲击”安理会阿里亚模式会议上,萨克斯援引自己去年发布的研究指出,在193个联合国成员国中,美国在“各国对联合国多边主义支持指数”排名中垫底,显示“美国是最不支持联合国多边主义的国家”。他将此归因于美方频频违反国际承诺、实施单边制裁,以及在联合国大会中屡次投票反对多数国家立场。

  萨克斯警告,单边主义带来的后果是严重的,包括国际贸易体系破裂、军备竞赛、公开冲突,以及应对气候变化与可持续发展的多边框架遭到破坏。

  要点

  周四,法国奢侈品集团开云集团公布的第一季度销售额低于预期,并指出未来还存在更多宏观经济逆风因素,其股价随之下跌。

  这家时尚巨头第一季度的收入同比暴跌14%,降至39亿欧元(44亿美元),低于路孚特(LSEG)分析师预测的40.1亿欧元。

  古驰的销售额在集团总收入中占比近一半,按可比口径计算下降了25%,至15.7亿欧元。

位于法国巴黎的一家古驰奢侈品精品店

  周四,法国奢侈品集团开云集团公布的第一季度销售额低于预期,并指出未来还存在更多宏观经济逆风因素,其股价随之下跌。

  根据该公司周三发布的报告,这家时尚巨头第一季度的收入同比暴跌14%,降至39亿欧元(44亿美元),低于路孚特(LSEG)分析师预测的40.1亿欧元。

  古驰的销售额在集团总收入中占比近一半,按可比口径计算下降了25%,至15.7亿欧元,目前该品牌的业务转型仍在进行中。

  截至发稿,开云集团股价下跌5.9%,此前该股票在开盘时曾一度停牌。其他奢侈品集团历峰集团的股价下跌1.5%,路威酩轩集团(LVMH)和爱马仕集团的股价也下跌了0.9%。

  该公司整体表现疲软,主要是由于其在亚洲的集团销售额下降了25%,同时在北美和欧洲的销售额均下降了13%。

  开云集团董事长兼首席执行官弗朗索瓦-亨利・皮诺表示,公司今年开局艰难,并强调了陷入困境的奢侈品行业未来面临的更多挑战。

  他在一份声明中表示:“在这种环境下,我们全神贯注于执行我们的行动计划,以实现我们的战略和财务目标,并加强我们旗下品牌在所有市场的地位。”

  他补充道:“我们正提高警惕,以抵御我们行业面临的宏观经济逆风,我相信我们将从当前形势中变得更强大。”

  上个月,开云集团任命德姆纳・格瓦萨利亚为古驰的新艺术总监,这是该集团为扭转其陷入困境的主要品牌所做的最新努力。然而,这一任命导致该公司股价受挫,因为投资者对格瓦萨利亚此前在开云集团旗下较小品牌巴黎世家2022年的一则广告宣传活动中引发的争议感到担忧。

  由于其设计不再受消费者青睐,且其曾经利润丰厚的亚洲市场近期的低迷中受到重创,古驰已连续几个季度销售疲软。

  这是在近年来奢侈品市场因通货膨胀加剧和经济形势疲软而普遍下滑的背景下发生的。

  在今年年初,这种局面似乎有所转变,许多高端时尚品牌公布的第四季度收益较为乐观。不过,分析师此前曾警告称,关税导致的宏观经济放缓可能会阻碍奢侈品市场的复苏进程。

  德意志银行的一般零售和奢侈品股票研究分析师亚当・科克伦本月早些时候写道:“全球股票市场走弱以及更广泛的经济不确定性将打压市场信心,我们认为这将进一步推迟奢侈品需求的复苏。”

  人们原本预计,奢侈品品牌相比其他零售商,受关税的直接影响会更小,因为高端品牌通常更有能力将增加的成本转嫁给富裕的消费者。然而,分析师指出,像开云集团这样原本销售就疲软的品牌,可能在这方面的能力较弱。

  加拿大道明银行美邦(TDCowen)周四在一份报告中写道:“我们还注意到,由于客户情绪减弱和普遍的价格弹性,这些品牌可能会因关税而更缓慢地提高价格,这是开云集团和路威酩轩集团(LVMH)之间的一个关键区别(路威酩轩集团此前曾提到定价是一个主要手段)。”

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