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随着美国总统特朗普发起的新一轮贸易战逐步升温,全球服装和鞋履供应链中的关键国家与企业正面临前所未有的挑战。其中,亚洲各国服装制造商首当其冲,或将因高额关税和供应链转移而遭受重创,而美国消费者则将为此付出更多成本。

目前,美国对中国商品征收高达145%的关税,中国作为美最大服装供应国之一首当其冲。尽管部分关税在4月9日暂停执行,预计在7月初暂停期结束后可能重新启动。与此同时,美国也对来自其他国家的服装和鞋类进口普遍征收10%的关税,而被称为“互惠税率”的附加关税,已预设对包括越南、孟加拉、柬埔寨等在内的60个主要顺差国家征收更高税率,这些国家是全球服装产业链中的关键环节。

越南、孟加拉和柬埔寨等国因劳动力成本低,一直是国际服装巨头的首选制造基地。例如,孟加拉对美出口商品中约90%为成衣,美国是其最大客户。按拟定互惠税率,美国将对孟加拉商品征收37%的额外关税。柬埔寨所面临的税率更高达49%,而越南则为46%。这不仅将影响这些国家的出口收入,也可能迫使服装品牌寻找替代供应地,或直接将成本转嫁给美国消费者。

根据美国服装与鞋类协会的数据,美国97%的服装和鞋类依赖进口,几乎所有在美售出的新衣服和鞋子都将受到关税影响。2024年,美国从全球进口约1080亿美元服装,其中超过一半来自中国、越南和孟加拉。在十大供应国中,有七个来自亚洲。

特朗普的第一轮关税战早在2018年就迫使许多企业将部分生产转移出中国,以规避关税壁垒。这一趋势也带动了越南、孟加拉和柬埔寨等地服装制造业的发展。根据柬埔寨纺织与服装协会的数据,截至2024年,该国一半以上的制衣工厂为中国所有。

对主要国际品牌而言,关税将直接影响其成本结构。耐克(NKE.US)2024年有约50%的鞋类产品和28%的服装来自越南;阿迪达斯(ADDYY.US)38%的鞋子产自越南,23%的服装来自柬埔寨;Lululemon(LULU.US)有40%的产品产自越南,17%来自柬埔寨,7%来自孟加拉;昂跑(ONON.US)更是有高达90%的鞋类来自越南。这些品牌在面对高额关税时,不得不考虑涨价或重新布局供应链。

而消费者也将切实感受到价格上涨的压力。耶鲁大学预算实验室的一项研究显示,若关税长期存在,美国消费者在未来三年内鞋类价格将上涨87%,服装上涨65%;即便在长期,价格也预计仍将分别高出29%与25%。此外,美国还计划于5月2日取消对来自中国的“免税包裹”豁免政策,即单个价值不超过800美元的直接邮寄包裹免征关税。

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