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走进杭州湾南岸的绍兴柯桥,中国轻纺城的电子屏上,实时跳动着全球纺织原料价格指数;在宁波鄞州的服装工厂里,3D量体设备正为欧洲客户定制西装;嘉兴桐乡的化纤车间中,智能化生产线每秒钟可产出千米级特种纤维……

这是环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群的“数智”缩影。2024年末,该产业集群成功入选国家先进制造业集群,正式跻身“国家队”。

历经千年积淀与四十载革新,浙江纺织服装产业已形成强大完备的产业链闭环:如萧山、桐乡、绍兴柯桥形成上游化纤原料产业带;中游织造印染集聚全国60%的绿色印染产能;下游以宁波、杭州、温州等为核心城市,搭建起“男装—女装—童装—家纺”的全品类布局,并形成了万事利、雅戈尔、太平鸟、博洋、雅莹等一批全球知名品牌。

除了具备全球最完整的产业链之外,环杭州湾现代纺织服装行业不断引入高科技应用,向技术密集型产业转型。柯桥的智能织机与杭州、宁波的AI设计碰撞,当桐乡的生物基纤维与杭州的工业互联网融合,浙江纺织服装产业链正在通过数字技术、绿色转型、品牌升级等路径,推动纺织产业攀“高”向“新”。

集群“链”味十足

在浙江这片被誉为“丝绸之府”的土地上,纺织业历史悠久。明清时期,杭嘉湖平原的“湖丝”“杭缎”就通过运河远销海内外。改革开放后,浙江发展成为全球最大的纺织品集散中心,并形成了以绍兴、杭州、宁波、嘉兴为主体的环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群。

数据显示,2023年,环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群主导产业产值达10135亿元,占全国近1/5,规模位居全国首位。这里为全球提供近1/3的纺织原料,全球1/4的纺织品在此交易,化纤、印染面料等10个细分领域产品市场占有率居全球第一。

浙江省经信厅产业升级与品牌建设处相关负责人指出,浙江纺织服装产业集群最大的优势就是“链”味十足、“链”条完整,从“一根丝”到“一件衣”,整个过程不出产业集群就能完成。

绍兴市柯桥区是全国最大的纺织印染产业聚集区,也是环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群的核心区域,处于上游面料环节。2024年,柯桥区910家规上纺织印染企业实现产值1406亿元,其中印染行业产值达632亿元,同比增长12.3%。一方水土成就一方企业,绍兴柯桥素有“世界纺织看中国,中国纺织在柯桥”的美誉,同时也是全球最大纺织品集散中心中国轻纺城的所在地。

中国轻纺城是全球规模最大的纺织品集散中心之一,1997年2月在上交所挂牌上市,成为全国第一家以专业批发市场为主体的上市公司。它拥有26个专业市场,每年全球约1/4的面料在此成交,全国近一半的纺织企业与之建立产销关系,是轻纺行业的“晴雨表”。其纺织品远销192个国家和地区,2024年交易额达4009.87亿元,同比增长11.09%。

轻纺城董事长潘建华在接受证券时报记者采访时表示,柯桥庞大的纺织产业基础,是轻纺城发展新质生产力的坚实后盾;而轻纺城则是柯桥区纺织产业的核心驱动力。一方面,轻纺城连接了上下游企业,还提供设计、物流、金融等配套服务,促进产业链整合;另一方面,引入数字化技术推动产业升级。同时,作为时尚高地,它影响着面料革新和服装生产销售,为区域产业发展提供有力支撑。

如今,轻纺城正从传统市场向纺织产业综合集成服务商转型。在面料领域,它不仅是交易平台,更是面料新材料的引领者,通过面料创新促进下游服装生产销售。2024年,轻纺城成立首个纺织新材料中心。

潘建华指出,轻纺城建立纺织新材料中心,实现了纺织材料企业与面料、成品制造商的直接互动。此外,轻纺城集团还在建设电商选品中心和面料成衣化平台,打造新材料创新“高地”,推动柯桥区纺织面料创新,助力柯桥纺织从“加工基地”迈向“全球时尚策源地”。

从“织造”向“智造”跃迁

纺织产业虽是浙江的传统优势产业,但如今也成为高科技应用的前沿领域。从上游化纤原料、中游印染织造到下游服装和家纺企业,都在积极引入数字化手段和AI技术,提升行业整体效率。

在丝绸龙头企业万事利杭州总部,定制一条丝巾从设计到生产最快仅需2小时,而传统印染需500米起订,工期至少15天。万事利用AIGC技术,实现丝巾花型“千人千面”的个性化定制。

万事利董事长李建华向记者介绍,公司自2018年开始尝试将AI技术引入设计环节,借助新技术设计个性化丝绸产品,满足消费者审美需求,与西方传统奢侈品牌竞争。2024年1月,万事利丝绸与无界AI推出丝绸行业首个实用图形AI大模型——万事利花型大模型。该模型基于“50万+”花型数据库和超300种算法组成的AI图像算法矩阵,首批可实现4种纹样设计。

在引入AIGC技术之前,万事利已在生产环节探索应用。传统纺织业存在生产速度慢、污水排放大、工艺流程长等难题,为此,万事利历时8年研发出GBART数字化绿色印染技术(即无水数码印花技术),免去上浆和水洗工艺,实现无污水排放。该技术已列入2021年浙江省科技厅重点研发项目,并于2022年实现产业化生产100万米。

在纺织服饰行业产业升级的趋势下,设备供应企业也在积极转型。杭州的宏华数科深耕数码喷印领域30余年,借助下游客户数字化转型和政策支持高能耗行业低碳环保的契机,成为推动印染行业数字化、低碳转型的领军企业之一。

走进宏华数科总部展厅,多台正在工作中的数码喷印设备赫然映入眼帘,员工将印花图片导入印花处理软件系统,软件控制数码打印机把印花染料直接喷印到布料上,不同的喷印设备适用于丝绸、涤纶等不同的面料。

与传统印花相比,数码喷印技术大幅缩短生产周期。宏华数科董秘俞建利对记者表示,传统印染设备向数码喷印设备转型是行业趋势。数码喷印技术节能环保、污染排放低,无需制版、交货周期短、小批量生产成本低,既符合纺织业商业逻辑,也顺应绿色环保发展方向。

俞建利介绍,宏华数科正在研发数字微喷技术,用于布料染色。2024年上半年,公司在喷染设备和数字微喷涂核心部件及设备方面订单实现“零的突破”,后续将继续推进相关设备的研发中试及打样测试工作。

品牌力瓶颈仍待突破

历经数十载的发展,尽管环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群在规模、产业链和全球市场份额上优势明显,但在迈向世界级产业高地的进程中,仍面临一些挑战。由于长期以制造为主,行业同质化产品过多,品牌影响力较弱。

在潘建华看来,打造品牌是纺织服装行业发展的必然选择。轻纺城一直致力于打造具有强大影响力的市场品牌,同时鼓励市场内企业打造自有品牌。轻纺城作为重要的产业高地,吸引众多面料供应商和采购商,其市场品牌已成为行业标识,只有具备品牌影响力,才能引领行业发展。

据潘建华透露,2024年轻纺城举办了179场服务活动,涵盖展会、品牌发布、供应链对接等多种形式。“这些活动虽不盈利,但通过‘引进来’和‘带出去’的方式,加强了企业间交流合作,提升市场内企业品牌的知名度和影响力,为市场内品牌发展创造良好环境。”

政府也出台相关政策,鼓励纺织服饰企业加强自有品牌建设。以浙江平湖羽绒服装产业为例,平湖市经信局党委委员武剑告诉记者,平湖市持续优化扶持政策,研究出台了《平湖市支持时尚产业转型提升专项政策》《平湖市加快发展新质生产力推动工业经济高质量发展若干政策意见》等政策文件,鼓励羽绒服企业鼓励打造自主品牌。

“平湖市加大对时尚产业设计赋能、引进设计师资源、创办设计型企业、培育区域品牌、推广自主品牌等方面的支持力度,每年安排不少于1000万元资金,助力时尚企业高质量发展。”武剑表示。目前,平湖市培育出本土羽绒服奢侈品牌Raxxy瑞希,该品牌成为国内首个在长城走秀的品牌。此外,还涌现出伊佳林、伊思佳、杰克菲雷等众多原创设计型、制造型、成长型品牌,全市拥有服装自主创新品牌300多个。

对于如何强化品牌影响力,李建华认为,在纺织行业面临诸多挑战的情况下,品牌发展离不开科技含量和中国文化价值。“万事利将品牌发展与弘扬中国丝绸文化紧密结合,从单纯把丝绸作为纺织面料,转变为深度挖掘其文化内涵,融入品牌建设,打造具有深厚文化底蕴的丝绸品牌,使其成为国家文化传播的重要符号。”他表示。

环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群在产业升级道路上已取得显著成绩,但在品牌影响力提升方面仍有发展空间。未来,环杭州湾现代纺织服装集群通过持续的科技创新、产业链优化和品牌建设,有望打造出更具竞争力的世界级纺织服装产业高地,为全国纺织服装产业发展提供更具价值的“浙江样本”。

(文章来源:证券时报)

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