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转自:北京商报

奢侈品消费遇冷。4月14日巴黎股市收盘后,LVMH集团公布了2025财年一季度业绩报告。报告期内,集团总营收同比下降2%至203亿欧元,在有机基础上同比下降3%,表现未达市场预期。

分部门来看,路易威登和迪奥所属的时装与皮具部门,其销售额占集团总销售额的近一半,营业利润占比超过四分之三。该部门销售额为101.08亿欧元,同比下降5%,远低于预期的持平表现;手表和珠宝业务收入24.82亿欧元,有机营收零增长;香水与化妆品部门收入21.78亿欧元,有机营收下降1%,而2024年的有机营收则增长了4%。

分市场来看,包括中国在内的亚太市场有机销售额下跌11%,贡献占比从2024年的33%下降至30%;美国市场销售额下跌3%,集团称主要受丝芙兰表现拖累,竞争对手亚马逊在价格战中非常激进;日本市场下跌1%,而该地区市场曾是带动2024年奢侈品行业增长的关键动力;欧洲市场则逆势上涨2%,成为一季度唯一增长的市场。

LVMH最新业绩为整个奢侈品行业敲响了警钟,Bernstein分析师LucaSolca直言,LVMH2025年开年的表现“软启动”。财报公布后,LVMH美股跌幅迅速扩大,早盘尾声刷新日低至109.9美元,日内跌近9.4%,最终收跌6.2%。

财报公布后的业绩电话会上,LVMH管理层表示,集团将考虑涨价,应对美国的关税。正设法控制GA(管理及行政费用),拥有调整市场营销成本的空间。对于美国总统特朗普宣布将暂缓90天实行部分关税,集团感到茫然。4月15日,路易威登上调部分包袋价格,其中Speedytrunk20从23500元上涨至24400元,迪奥也将在明日进行涨价。不过,迪奥官方销售人员向北京商报记者表示,此次涨价为常规价格上调。

对于LVMH业绩下滑的原因,要客研究院院长周婷认为,一季度的奢侈品销售下滑,是2024年颓势的延续,核心原因是高端消费者受各种不确定因素影响,对未来缺乏信心,进而影响消费,同时,各类平替在大范围冲击奢侈品市场份额,品牌多极化趋势直接影响传统奢侈品牌消费,而奢侈品品牌自身的产品也创新乏力,新品推出速度和质量并未起到引领和带动消费目的。此外,各大品牌的频繁涨价也已引起部分客户不满,影响其继续消费。

周婷进一步指出,特朗普关税政策属于短期现象。从长期看则不会影响奢侈品消费,并且可能因为这类事件的集中出现,加快各种政策制定和立法的进程,促进中国消费市场回暖和良性发展,“奢侈品的特点是逆周期性,所以品牌的策略制定也应拨开云雾,在不被临时性变化影响的基础上制定市场策略,比如继续推进和加强品牌高端化进程等”。

香颂资本董事沈萌则指出,美国关税政策将打击奢侈品边际消费群体的消费行为,而对核心消费群体的影响有限,所以对于奢侈品新增长的冲击更加突出,奢侈品牌在短期新需求增长有限的前提下,更适合围绕核心消费群体展开深度挖掘。

经济学者盘和林则认为,特朗普关税政策和物价上涨,使得奢侈品销售价格提高,从而抑制了部分消费欲望,美国经济本身处在不确定性当中,贫富差距拉大,奢侈品的目标受众在缩小,尤其是部分消费群体资产缩水带来了消费力减弱,新兴消费品也取代了奢侈品的部分市场份额。“在特朗普对等关税政策的影响下,奢侈品会继续涨价,二手奢侈品市场则会更为活跃,消费者会等待价格回落,毕竟大多数中产群体对价格依旧敏感。”

北京商报记者蔺雨葳

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